Tips & Techniques

THE PREP

• Directions: Spray directly on the piece and allow to sit for 1-3 minutes, then wipe.  No rinse necessary.

• Never skip The Prep. This is essential to cleaning, degreasing, and deglossing the surface and ensuring the maximum adhesion of the resin paint.

• For extra dirty or greasy surfaces, spray use a scrubby pad.  Then spray and wipe a second time with a clean cloth to verify the surface is clean.

• Prep can also be used for cleaning carpet and laundry stains.

• Take care to protect other surface from overspray when applying.

• https://youtu.be/EAM6gbCsIJg 

• Why Prep is Important

RESIN PAINT

• Directions: Apply using a quality, soft bristle brush smoothing on in a back and forth motion.

• Be sure to apply enough paint to allow the self-leveling and allow to dry completely before applying additional coats

• Use a misting bottle to add moisture and keep the paint "moveable" until you get it just right.  The moisture will aid the self-leveling.

• If you are painting a dark piece with one of the whites or lighter colors, it may be useful to use Gray Mist or True Gray as the first coat.  This will help reduce the number of coats for full coverage.

• Resin paint will stick to wood, laminate, plastic, metal, glass, concrete, and more!

• No fumes, strong odors, and low VOC.  No need to move outside, but make sure to protect your floor from drips!

• Resin pain is UV fade resistant and has a rust inhibitor, so its perfect for outdoor use

• Dry is not th same as cured.  Avoid doing a "scratch" test and be very gentle until it is cured, which could be up to 4 weeks.  Once fully cured, it is extremely durable!

• https://youtu.be/5bcOurKLNHg 

• First Coat vs Second Coat

TUFF TOP & FLAT TOP

• Directions: Apply with a sponge or high quality bristle brush and smooth with very light pressure from end to end to prevent puddles. Watch for drips on edges

• Apply enough to allow for self-leveling.  Using too little will cause streaks.

• When applying to whites and lighter colors, it is recommended to mix a teaspoon or two of paint and apply to prevent potential yellowing

• Flat Top has an Eggshell sheen and Tuff Top is a little more shiny.  The more Tuff Top you apply, the shinier the finish will be.

• Image 1

• Image 2

SCRUBBY PADS

• Scrubby pads are great to scrub a surface after applying The Prep.

• Scrubby pads are gentle enough to rub across a dry painted surface to reduce bumps of things that may have gotten into the paint as it dries.

• https://youtu.be/mPY0KTXlW-k

WASHES (Wax Alternative Sealer & Hardener)

• Directions: Stir VERY WELL before you begin and throughout the project.  Pay attention to scraping the bottom of the container.   Apply with a quality bristle brush and smooth with very light pressure from end to end to prevent puddles. Watch for drips on edges and brush them away.

• Washes have a sealer in them.  There is no need to use Tuff Top or Flat Top afterwards

• Blend, smooth, and erase with your brush or a soft, lint-free cloth until the look makes you happy.

• Wash adds very subtle dimension and seals the project.

• Color combinations are endless! Try Sea Glass over Seaside, Vintage White over True Gray, Black Pearl over Wild berry, any combination you can think of!

• Vintage White: https://youtu.be/CHcHQOnwE_E

• Sea Glass: https://youtu.be/gtjzYujHeIc 

• Black Pearl: https://youtu.be/0EWJb5LHxhY

• Warm Stone: https://youtu.be/ufdCPMG5TAU 

• GLAZE AND WASH IMAGE

STAIN TOP

• Directions: Apply with a quality brush to cover the complete surface.  Smooth with very light pressure in the direction of the wood grain to prevent puddles. Watch for drips along the edges

• Some customers prefer to use a stain pad or folded piece of lint free fabric to apply

• Overworking the Stain Top once it begins drying can cause streaks.  Apply liberally and allow to self-level

• Stain Top colors can be blended for unlimited looks!

• To get a dark coverage, quicker, add a tablespoon of paint to Stain Top and mix well.  Suggestions: Semisweet to Dark Walnut, Midnight to Raven Black, Gray Mist or True Gray to Weathered Gray.

• Stain Top should be sealed with Tuff Top or Flat Top for extra protection

• https://youtu.be/_WoBlE0ZIX8 

• Stain Top Image 1

• Stain Top Image 2

• Stain Top Image 3

• Stain Top Image 4

• Stain Top Image 5

• Stain Top Image 6

CLEAN TOP

• Directions: Spray on a soft, lint free cloth and wipe the surface until it is clean

• Clean top can be used on all kinds of surfaces - painted, plastic, stained, stainless stel, glass, laminate, vynal, leather, and electronics.

• Clean Top is non abrasive and non toxic

• Clean Top does not contain alcohol or ammonia, so it is gentle, but may take a little longer to dry completely

RETHUNK GUNK

• Directions: Apply a generous coat to protect the surface. Adhere paper or fabric gently pressing out all bubbles using your hand of a brayer.  Allow to dry for a few minutes. Apply final coat to seal.

• Sit your project outside on a pretty day to allow the sunshine to help bake out any wrinkles

• Tuff Top is not needed over Rethunk Gunk

• Rethunk Gunk is better than Mod Podge for any decoupage project!

• Rethunk Gunk Image

GLAZES

• Directions: Apply with a quality bristle brush across the entire painted surface or just carved and corner details.  Use a clean, damp cloth to remove excess glaze and work further into cracks and details. Rinse and wring cloth dry and continue wiping back and forth until the desired look is achieved.

• If the glaze application seems too dark or uneven, use the original paint color and gently dry brush over dark areas. Continue dry brushing in long strokes until your desired look is achieved.

• Applying a glaze to a freshly painted surface can reactivate the paint and cause it to rub off or peel.  Allow the paint to dry overnight before applying glaze.

• Demonstration Video by Laura

• DRY BRUSHING

  • Dry brushing means to take a really cheap, rough chip brush, dip it in the paint, wipe most of it off, and lightly brush across a solid, painted surface. You can dry brush any color (or combination of colors) as light or heavy, as you like to create the look desired. 

  • Quick Video by Laura

• RESTORATION HARDWARE FINISH

  • For a "Restoration Hardware" finish, you can dry brush two or three light coats of our semi transparent Stain Top products. This type of finish is perfect to give your piece extra dimension as well as cover up any perfections if the piece is not perfectly smooth. These can be finished with one of our WASH products to give it a little extra blending and coloration, our Tuff Top for a little bit of shine, or our Flat Top.

  • Photo Examples

  • Demo Video by BKC - Table Top

  • Demo Video by BKC - Credenza Top

  • Training Demo by Amy Rowbury

PAINTING CABINETS

• NO NEED to sand or prime the cabinets before beginning!  No NEED to remove the doors! Just use a small artist-type brush around the hinges and more detailed areas.

• Clean the surface with The Prep.  Use a scrubby pad if the surface is very dirty or glossy.

• Paint first coat with a quality brush and let it dry completely.

  • Apply the paint and move away from it.  Trust paint self levels to a smooth finish.  DO NOT go back before it is dry and "touch" up which will leave brush strokes.  The first coat won't be beautiful, the beauty comes with the second.

• Paint second coat and let it dry completely.  Usually only two coats are needed, but occasionally three may be needed depending on what color you are going from or to

• Apply Tuff Top or Flat Top for extra protection.  Miracle Sponges are great for this!

• How Much Paint

• Cabinet Tips

• Kitchen Tips

PAINTING WOOD LAMINATED WOOD (AKA pressed wood, particle board, etc.)

• Clean the surface with The Prep

• Paint first coat with a quality brush and let it dry completely.

  • Apply the paint and move away from it.  Trust paint self levels to a smooth finish.  DO NOT go back before it is dry and "touch" up which will leave brush strokes.  The first coat won't be beautiful, the beauty comes with the second.

• Paint additional coats if needed (usually 2 is sufficient for full coverage)

• Use Tuff Top or Flat Top for extra protection on horizontal and heavily used surfaces

PAINTING FRONT DOORS

• Spray the surface with The Prep and wipe clean

• Paint first coat with a quality brush and let it dry completely.

  • Apply the paint and move away from it.  Trust paint self levels to a smooth finish.  DO NOT go back before it is dry and "touch" up which will leave brush strokes.  The first coat won't be beautiful, the beauty comes with the second.

• Paint second coat in the same manner

• Do not use Tuff Top or Flat Top.  The paint is UV Protected, Fade Resistant, Waterproof, and has a Rust Inhibitors for years of beauty!

• For best results, paint with temperature is 55-85 degrees. Leave the door open until fully dry (usually 30 mins - 1 hour)

PAINTING FABRIC

• Spray the fabric with a mixture of 80% water and 20% fabric softener

• Paint the first coat while still wet and let it dry completely.

• Sand with 80-120 grit sandpaper

• Paint additional coats if needed sanding in between (usually 2 is sufficient for full coverage)

• If you are satisfied with the way it looks, you are done!  If you need more coverage, sand again, and paint again. The fabric will feel surprisingly soft, remain flexible, and not crack or chip!

• Do not use Tuff Top or Flat Top

• Fabric Image 1

• Fabric Image 2

PAINTING LEATHER & PLEATHER

• Clean the surface with The Prep

• Paint first coat with a quality brush and let it dry completely.

  • Apply the paint and move away from it.  Trust paint self levels to a smooth finish.  DO NOT go back before it is dry and "touch" up which will leave brush strokes.  The first coat won't be beautiful, the beauty comes with the second.

• Paint additional coats if needed (usually 2 is sufficient for full coverage)

• The leather will remain flexible, not chip, and feel similar to the original material!

• Do not use Tuff Top or Flat Top

PAINTING BRICK

• Vacuum the brick

• Use a brush and dip the tips in water about every third paint dip (3:1) this will help keep bristles not get ‘gummed’ up/thick

• dip bristles lightly in paint

• work a small area ( ex: 2x2) at a time

• with ‘ loaded’ brush, paint the grout first, then swipe the brick 

• do it lightly for a more white washed look

• the grout is rough and will chew up the brush

PAINTING SOMETHING WITH RUST

• If the rust is raised and bumpy, you can lightly sand the rust flat before you begin.

• Clean the surface with The Prep

• Paint the first coat with a quality brush, being cautious to not over work it.

• Paint additional coats if needed (usually 2 is sufficient for full coverage)

• Use Tuff Top or Flat Top for extra protection on horizontal and heavily used surfaces

MAKING A SURFACE INTO A CHALK BOARD

• Paint the surface and allow the paint to fully dry for a few days.

• Do not use Tuff Top or Flat Top

• "Season" the surface by using the side of a piece of chalk and rubbing across entire surface.  Watch for sharp edges on the chalk as they may scratch the paint if it is not fully cured

• Erase complete and use as your chalkboard!

PAINTING CORK

• Spray or mist the fabric with water

• Paint the first coat while still wet and let it dry completely.

• Paint additional coats if needed (usually 2 is sufficient for full coverage)

• Do not use Tuff Top or Flat Top

Do I need to sand or prime before I paint?

• • No, sanding and priming is not required before painting.  However, if the wood is damaged with peeling paint, groves, or scratches that you don't want to show though, you should fill in with wood putty and sand before painting

How long does the paint take to dry?

• • Most of the time, the paint is dry to the touch within 30 minutes.  You can speed up the drying time with a fan.

How do I prevent brush strokes?

• • Apply the paint and go away from it.  Trust the paint to do its self-leveling.  If you "touch up" before it is dry, the paint it will drag the paint and leave brush strokes.

  • Use a quality soft bristle brush and keep a misting spray bottle with water nearby to spritz the paint and keep it workable.  Don't overwork the paint!

  • Don't apply the paint too thick or thin.  There needs to be enough to allow the self-leveling to occur.

How do I clean my brush?

• • All products are water based and clean up with soap and water.  Do not allow the product to dry on the brush before cleaning.

Why do I have steaks in my Tuff Top or why is my Tuff Top cloudy looking?

• • This usually happens because the Tuff Top was applied to thin and could not self-level.  A second coat typically solves the issue. 

  • It doesn't have to look perfect when you apply it, there may be bubbles or streaks, but it should self level.

  • If you aren't thrilled with the finish, just paint right over it and be done.  The hardening factor of the Tuff Top below the paint will be just fine.

Can I apply Stain Top over the wood filler I used on my piece? 

• • Stain Top will not cover wood filler in the same way it looks on wood.  It's best to paint areas that have wood filler.

Can I paint a piece that was previously painted with Chalk Paint?

• • Yes, BUT if it was sealed with wax, you must wipe down with mineral spirits before using The Prep and painting.

Do I have to use Tuff Top or Flat Top to Seal my piece?

• • The paint has a nice sheen to it when it is dry.  If you like the finish and it's not a heavily used surface, leave it as is.  However, if you want to add a little more protection and/or shine to the piece, apply the Tuff Top or Flat Top.

How can I prevent yellowing with Tuff Top?

• • Make sure all the dust from distressing has been removed and make sure Tuff Top doesn't pool in any areas as you apply it

  • On lighter colors, you can add a few tablespoons of the paint to the Tuff Top to slightly tint it before applying.

What's the best way to distress my piece?

• • Laura loves the Ryobi Cordless Corner Cat Sander with 80 grit sanding pads.  

  • If you want to wet sand (remove paint with a wet cloth using a rubbing technique), do it immediately after paint is dry to the touch.

  • https://youtu.be/07Ptr2VBc2s 

What is the Shelf Life of Rethunk Junk?

• • +/- 2 years if sealed and unopened, 6 months after opening

What do I do if I change my mind and want to paint it another color?

• • Just Repaint it!  If it's been a while, clean again with The Prep

I have a piece that old paint is peeling.  What do I need to do to repaint it?

• • This is one of the few cases where we recommend scraping the old paint and sanding the edges of the old paint smooth.  You don't necessarily have to sand it down to raw wood, but if there are edges around the chipped paint, they will show through.I have a piece that is rusty, what do I need to do to repaint it?

  • If you don't mind the bumps of the rust, paint right over it.  Otherwise, this is another of the few cases when sanding is recommended to smooth the rusty spots.

I am painting Raw Wood, do I have to prep?

• • If you are painting raw wood that has not been used or touched before, you do not need to use The Prep.

  •  Be aware that raw wood will absorb more paint than surfaces that have already been finished.  To lessen the amount of paint it will take, you can apply a coat of Tuff Top and let it dry before painting.

Can I use Tuff Top or Flat Top on outside items?

• • No. Tuff Top and Flat Top are specially formulated for indoor use only.  When used outside, it may yellow or flake over time.

I want a slightly different color, can I get Rethunk Junk tinted?

• • No, BUT, you can mix colors together to find the perfect color you are looking for!

My paint isn't sticking. What do I do?

• • Did you prep the piece well?  If not, thats the problem.

  • Was it previously cleaned with wax-based cleaners like Pledge prior to painting?  If so, rub the piece down with mineral spirits to help remove the wax build up and try again.

  • How long ago did you paint the piece? If less than 7 days, just give it more time.

What do I do if I see orange, yellow, or pink bleed through the paint? 

• • Pink and orange bleeds are usually caused by the tannins in the wood are are sometimes released in old projects when they are sanded and less commonly in newer woods when they're cleaned for painting.  If you notice it, just apply some Tuff Top over the areas to seal the tannins in and apply another layer of paint.  If this does not remedy the problem, use an oil-based primer to cover the area, allow to dry, and paint.

Can I paint things that get HOT?

• • Rethunk Junk paint does well up with continual heat up to about 250 degrees and up to 350 for two hours or less

  • I have personally painted the exterior of a barbeque grill and it has held up just fine!

Is Rethunk Junk Paint Safe?

• • All RTJ Products are zero VOC, water based and safe to be used in a food environment. Non-toxic. It all passes the California safety standards (the strictest in the US). 

  • Prep is safe to use around pets and plants just like people. However, you wouldn't spray yourself so don't spray them. :-) Pets shouldn't eat the Prep...or the paint....but neither should people. It is safe if used as directed.

Can I use RTJ in a Sprayer?

• • Yes, you can use RTJ products in a sprayer.  Just be sure to follow the sprayer recommendations for dilluting the paint for optimal use. Be aware that there is a learning curve with a sprayer and it takes some getting used to.